5 Ways To Glimpse Granada

Photos by Rosalind Cummings-Yeates

Granada is the kind of city that literally sweeps you off your feet. With iconic architecture, the striking backdrop of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and music and festivities seeping out from every street corner, it’s impossible to just sit around.  

Despite suffering from jet lag and aching feet from the uneven cobblestones that line Granada’s narrow streets, I discovered that there was no way I was going to lay back and let all the fun pass me by. Granada is a city that demands active participation and I quickly adapted to the Granadino lifestyle. Here are some of my favorite ways to experience the city like a local:

Strolling The Historic Albayzin Neighborhood

Filled with winding labyrinths of cobblestone paths and houses decked with walled gardens or carmens, the Albayzin neighborhood displays the essence of Moorish Spain. This is the medieval heart of the Andalucía province, each step represents hundreds of years of cultural and architectural advancements.

You can spend hours roaming the steep streets and browsing the shops spilling out with water pipes, Moroccan carpets and pottery but my favorite thing is to climb up to the Mirador San Nicholas lookout and gaze at the spectacle of  the Albayzin’s tiled roofs surrounded by the Alhambra fortress and Sierra Nevada mountains.

Sipping Tea In A Teteria

Spain is a coffee drinking culture, but another hallmark of Granada’s Moorish past is the tradition of tea drinking.  Teterias, or traditional tea rooms, decorate every corner of the lively boulevard of Calle Caldereria Nueva and they beckon visitors with hand-painted tile tables, colored lanterns and inviting cushions.

You can try a variety of teas, from black to herbal, but the traditional Moroccan mint is the hallmark. I sank back into an embroidered cushion and watched my waiter pour from a long stemmed pot. He swooped it high to low, swirling my tea into a delicate glass cup. Most teterias offer an array of food, pastries and puffs from shishas or water pipes and you can watch crowds of revelers drop in before or after a night of dancing.

Hanging Out At Los Italianos Ice Cream Parlor

This legendary ice cream spot has served Granadinos since 1934 and it remains the most popular in the city. Open from March-October, Los Italianos is a late night hang out where flocks of students, couples and families go for their evening frozen treat fix. Fresh, natural ingredients and unusual, local flavors are the big draw. I ordered jerez or sherry flavored ice cream, which tasted like a creamy cocktail. Leaning against the wall, I watched locals clamor for the shop’s specialty- cassata, or ice cream cake in a cone flavored with vanilla, strawberry, chocolate and almonds.

Bar Hopping For Tapas

Everybody knows about the small bites served in Spanish cafes or restaurants but Granada is one of the last Spanish cities that still practice the tradition of free tapas with every round of drinks. Traditionally, tapas are small snacks to accompany wine or beer. Some places offer set tapas and you can’t choose or send them back. Others have a small menu of options. Wandering around the Albayzin, I slipped into a bar, ordered wine and was presented with a plate of guacamole on crusty bread, with olives and slices of ham. The second glass brought cheese and fried eggplant. I can’t handle more than two drinks but heartier locals visit several bars for a steady line-up of drinks and free food, with an inevitable stop by the famed Bar Los Diamantes for fresh fish tapas.

Ride A Bus To La Alpujarras

The beauty of Granada isn’t just the striking scenery; it’s also a province that boasts adjoining mountains and beaches. You can hop on a bus in the heart of Granada one hour and find yourself in a remote mountain village the next. The white-washed villages of Las Alpujarras showcase Berber architecture and soaring vistas. I hiked around the charming town of Trevelez, the highest point in Europe. Looking over the mountains, I could spot the Moorish structures of Granada, where I had roamed only a few hours before.

Although Granada is famous for the Alhambra Palaces and other  historic landmarks, taking time to see the city from a local perspective will create an impression as lasting as the city’s medieval streets.