A Beginner’s Guide to Fiji

Photo courtesy of Nanuku Auberge Resort - Fiji

With more than 330 islands and a total land area encompassing 18,720 kilometres (7,000 square miles), Fiji can seem overwhelming to the first-time visitor. But the tropical paradise, known for its world-class diving and snorkeling, luxurious and intimate waterfront resorts, and home to some of the nicest people on the planet should be on every traveller’s to do list. From Western Canada, the flight clocks in at just about 12 hours, faster than most flights to Europe or the Caribbean.

Once you’ve set your mind on a Fiji vacation, picking the right island is your next major decision. Just as Orlando varies from Las Vegas, each Fiji destination holds its own distinctive personality. Here's a breakdown of some of the most popular places to stay.

Viti Levu

Viti Levu is the largest of the Fijian islands and all but a handful of travellers will start their vacation here.

Nadi: Pronounced "Nandi," this is Fiji’s third-largest town and home to the major international airport and one of the major pleasure craft ports. People who want to eat out, drink and shop might want to spend a little time exploring Nadi town and the surrounding area, but designer labels and trendy restaurants aren’t really Fiji’s main draw. Unless you’re staying in the adjacent resort island, Denarau, it’s okay to skip an overnight stay in Nadi.

Where to Stay: Most people who do stay in Nadi, stay because their flight connections have left them with hours of free time. If that's the case, resist the urge to book an airport-adjacent hotel and rather get to the fabulous Fiji Orchid Hotel. Once the home of actor Raymond Burr, this secluded property is set on five acres of orchid-filled gardens in the foothills of the volcanic Nausori Highlands. Just six bures (bungalows) are available so you can enjoy your privacy. The property has a convenient day rate if you’re waiting for an international connection, but the excellent cuisine makes an overnight stay a must. Free airport transfers are also available.

Photo: Fiji Orchid Resort via Instagram

Denarau Island: Viti Levu’s major destination is Denarau Island, the largest integrated resort in the South Pacific. Less than 10 kilometres from Nadi, there are eight large, internationally branded resorts located here, carrying names like Hilton, Westin, Sofitel and Radisson. The area is also home to several lovely beaches, an 18-hole championship golf course, and the Port Denarau complex, with restaurants, entertainment options and connecting service to the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands.

Where to Stay: There are no bad options in Denarau, but because the resorts carry international flags they don’t necessarily reflect the personality for which the more intimate Fijian resorts are known. Stay a night or two in Denarau if it’s convenient, but be sure to also explore some of the other areas mentioned below. If you’re into spa services, the Hotel Sofitel Fiji Resort & Spa is a must. For family travellers, Radisson Blu Resort Fiji, Denarau Island has extensive lagoon pools and the island’s only white water tunnel slide.

Coral Coast: Just an hour beyond Nadi International Airport is the impossibly scenic Coral Coast. Here the Sigatoka River offers plenty of opportunities to explore, including a popular jet boat safari. Also worth visiting is Fiji’s only wild animal park, Kula Eco Park, with almost a kilometre of wooden walkways and bridges throughout.

Where to Stay: Many excellent resorts make their home in the Coral Coast. Two five-star favorites are the Outrigger on the Lagoon, which is home to the hilltop Bebe Spa, probably the spa with the best view in the entire country. The nearby Shangri-La’s Fijian Resort & Spa has one of the few area resorts with a sandy beach, and enjoys a well-deserved reputation as a great getaway for children.

Photo: Outrigger on the Lagoon

Pacific Harbour/Beqa: Continuing from the Coral Coast, your next stop will be the Pacific Harbour area, which is also known as Fiji’s adventure capital. If you’re looking for adrenaline-pounding activities, this is where you’ll find them. Shark diving, zip lining, jet skiing, four-wheel drive adventures and one of Fiji’s most-famous surfing spots can all be found here. Pacific Harbour is also a jumping off point for Beqa (pronounced Benga) Island, which is famous as the home of Fiji’s firewalkers.

Sunrise over Beqa Island from Lalati Resort

Where to Stay: The Pearl FIji, which feels a little like a London boutique hotel is the place for travellers looking for a laid-back experience with a bit of night-club edge. At the Nanuku Auberge Resort -Fiji, guests can tap into the small resort charm for which Fiji is known. The two-story villas, each under the care of a dedicated Villa Mama, will make you immediately feel like you’ve arrived home. Travellers on a budget will want to check out the Tsulu Beach Bunkhouse in the Arts Village. There’s a dormitory with hostel-type accommodations as well as whimsically decorated private apartments for travellers seeking privacy.

To really decompress, head to Lalati Resort & Spa on Beqa Island. Just a 30-minute boat ride from Pacific Harbor, Lalati is a private cocoon where time stands still. More than 100 dive sites are located near the island and be sure to ask your activities director to organize a trip to nearby Bat island. Or for a splurge check out the Royal Davui Island Fiji, so luxurious it comes stamped with the Virtuoso Hotels & Resorts seal of approval. For a romantic getaway, the Royal Davui Plunge Pool Suite - West is located on the western-most part of the island for optimal sunset views.

Suva: The next major stop beyond Pacific Harbour is Fiji’s capital, Suva. A cosmopolitan city with shopping, restaurants and many cultural attractions, Suva tends to attract mostly business travellers. Still, with so many colonial-era buildings found here this is a great spot for travellers interested in history.

Where to Stay: Newly re-opened, The Grand Pacific is a majestic tribute to colonial luxury. The property was first built in 1908, when the Union Steamship Company of New Zealand built the hotel to cater to passengers on their South Pacific routes. After a lengthy closure, the hotel re-opened as the “Grand Old Lady” of the South Pacific in 1914.

Sunset in Suva from the Grand Pacific Hotel

Sun Coast: Along the northern coasts of Viti Levu is Fiji’s Sun Coast. Lautoka, Fiji’s second-largest city is located here, offering an excellent exploration of the country’s history as a major sugar exporter. Most North American travellers don’t make it as far as the Sun Coast but there is plenty to see and do in the area.

Where to Stay: For guests interested in staying on their own private island, Dolphin Island is the perfect getaway.  The resort holds up to eight guests, but never more than one travelling party at a time. The experience here is so special it might seem like magic is at work. It’s not magic, though, but just the careful guidance of island host Dawn, who makes sure you always have what you need, and then some.

A guest bure at Dolphin Island

Mamanuca Islands

Once you’re ready to head beyond Viti Levu, the easiest option is the Mamanuca (pronounced Mama-nu-tha) Islands. This chain of 20 islands might feel familiar. After all, the Tom Hank’s film “Cast Away” and “Survivor: Fiji” TV show were filmed here. The islands offer the perfect combination of a true Fiji experience combined with convenient access via regularly scheduled catamaran service. Unlike many of the resorts on Viti Levu, which are generally built in a “hotel” style, the resorts are in the Mamanucas are built in a more traditional “Fijian” style with independent bures (bungalows), villas or cottages dotting the landscape. Plenty of water activities, including parasailing, windsurfing, dolphin-watching and amazing surf breaks are available throughout the islands.

Where to Stay: It is impossible to narrow down a list of best resorts in this area, but a few favorites follow. The adults-only Likuliku Lagoon Resort is home to Fiji’s first overwater bungalows and is among Fiji’s finest luxury resorts. For family travellers, the four-star Castaway island has gorgeous beaches, 174 acres of tropical rainforest and a deep commitment to environmental responsibility. With one of the top kids’ clubs in Fiji, this is a must for family travellers. On Malolo Island, Tropica Island Resort Fiji is a great place to visit if you’re celebrating a life event. The resort even includes a “Director of Celebration” who can help custom-design the specifics of the occasion you’re celebrating.

Likuliku Lagoon Resort

Yasawa Islands

Beyond the Mamanuca Islands, travellers will find the remote Yasawa Islands, which make up Fiji’s western border. British navigator William Bligh was the first European to sight the Yasawas in 1789, following the infamous mutiny on the HMS Bounty. There are no banks or shops or restaurants here, this remote destination is all about the natural beauty.

If you’re on a budget, your best bet is booking passage on the Yasawa Flyer, which circles through the Mamanucas and the Yasawas. A one-way pass is less than C$ 100, but you can island hop with a multi-day pass and experience several resorts. Many of the resorts along the way have dormitory-style accommodations as well as private bures, making them ideally priced for the backpacker set.

Where to Stay: For a splurge, there is no better option than the five-star Yasawa Island Resort. With just 18 bungalows, the resort is optimized for seclusion. Most of the staff here are locals, which makes your stay feel extra homey. This resort is particularly popular for spa lovers. Book the “Ultimate Spa Bonus” for just about C$ 300 and you’ll receive a 50-minute spa treatment every day of your stay, no matter how long it is. If you stay ten nights, that translates to just C$ 30 per treatment. The easiest way to get to Yasawa Island Resort is on a daily, chartered flight organized by the resort, or you can book a private helicopter flight.

Yasawa Island Resort

Vanua Levu

For travellers who are ready to dig a little deeper, Fiji’s second largest-island, Vanua Levu is a charming retreat with plenty to see and do. Although there are car ferries available, the best way to get here is by air.

Savusavu: The best-known town is Savusavu, which is set on a protected bay and popular with the yachting set. The nearby Wasali Nature Reserve offers plenty of hiking trails and spectacular views.

Koro Sun Resort

Where to Stay: The ultra-deluxe Jean Michel Cousteau Resort is set on its own marine reserve and is home to an amazing house reef. The kid’s club is one of the finest in Fiji, with lots of conservation and maritime learning incorporated into the daily activities. Spa lovers won’t want to miss the Koro Sun Resort & Rainforest Spa, where the spa is set in the midst of the Fijian rainforest. The new Edgewater Floating Bures provide direct access to snorkeling and kayaking, from right in front of the bure. For a red carpet experience, Namale Resort & Spa, which is owned by American motivational speaker Anthony Robbins, is celebrating its 25^th anniversary through June 2016 with several special guest offers.

Labasa: In the northern part of Vanua Levu is the town of Labasa. Mainly built around an agricultural economy, few visitors make it this far out. There are few glitzy hotels here, making this an ideal and affordable option for backpackers.

Where to Stay: The Labasa provides the best access to the luxurious Nukubati Resort, which is the sister property to Nadi’s Fiji Orchid, so package deals can easily be coordinated. The resort is 100 per cent Fijian owned, which is not as common as it should be in Fiji. All the staff are all locally born, raised and trained, so the experience is about as authentically Fijian as you can get. A can’t-miss activity here is the Sandbank Picnic, set up when the low tide reveals miniature sandbanks in front of the resort.

Sandbank picnic at Nukubati

Taveuni

Known as the Garden Island, Taveuni is a favorite for eco-travellers because of its nature reserves and abundance of native plants and wildlife. The Bouma National Heritage Park offers plenty of hiking trails and world-class birdwatching. The diving here is also top-notch; the island is known for its dive sites such as Eel Reef and the Great White Wall. Taveuni is one of the few places on earth where you can quite literally step back in time, as the International Date Line bisects the island, allowing you to plant one foot in today and the other in yesterday.

Where to Stay: The exclusive Taveuni Island Resort & Spa is consistently ranked as one of Fiji’s top resorts and is a favorite for small weddings and honeymoons. Set on an elevated piece of land, the westward-facing Paradise Taveuni it at its most romantic at sunset. The rocky outcropping also provides an excellent house reef, accessible simply by climbing a ladder directly into the water.

Under the sea at Paradise Taveuni

Getting Around

Fiji Airways offers non-stop service to Nadi from Los Angeles International Airport with connecting service from Canada on WestJet, Air Canada or Alaska Airlines. For a limited time, the airline is offering a special rate of around C$ 1,450 for roundtrip travel from YVR.

To get from Viti Levu to Vanua Levu or Taveuni, the most common option is on inter-island flights operated by Fiji Link. The flights usually take about 30 minutes and are a lovely way to see the scenic country. When flying between islands it is important to remember that “Fiji Time” is a real thing, which can mean delays or even unexpected flight changes, so it’s important to pack a healthy dose of patience. It’s also a good idea to re-confirm your inter-island flight date and time when you arrive in Fiji. Most small resorts will monitor flight arrivals and departure times and get you to the airport accordingly, but this service isn’t always available at the larger resorts. Chartering a small plane or helicopter is also a convenient way to get around, usually with a better on-time record.

To get around Viti Levu, there are plenty of transportation companies that offer reliable, air conditioned transfers. Tourist Transport Fiji, for example, charges about C$ 250 for the 2.5-hour trip between Nadi and Pacific Harbour, but the fee includes transportation for up to four people. Airport Shuttle Fiji charges about C$ 75 per person for the same trip. Some resorts include complimentary transportation or will add it for a small additional fee, so it’s good to ask the question before you book your own transportation.

For more information on visiting Fiji, visit the Tourism Fiji website.

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